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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred names. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the owners totally astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” states a family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble restaurant achieving such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary honour.